Vegetables and Composting

Reuirements for Vegetables

Ready to join the 42% of Americans who enjoy their own home grown vegetables? There are some basics to consider. Vegetables have specific needs:

• Fertile, organic, slightly acidic (6.2-7pH) loose soil
• Full sun, at least 6-8 hours of full sun per day
• Nearby water source
• Good air circulation to keep down pests and diseases

We have already discussed soil preparation in the chapter on soils. Consider, if planting in the city, that much of city soil is contaminated by heavy metals such as lead. You can test the soil for heavy metals (expensive) or use raised beds instead. Raised beds (18-24″ high) are easy to make, allow vegetables to root deeper (and above the potentially contaminated soil), warms up faster in the spring, drains water more effectively but may dry out sooner and need additional water. Be careful if you shoose to make a raised bed to use only wood that has not been chemically treated or consider a wood substitute.

Once you have the location, then the next question is when to plant. temperature is a key factor here. Some root vegetables such as shallots and garlic will over winter and can be planted before the first or last frost dates. Our average last frost date is April 15 and our average first frost date is October 15. Note though that these are averages. We often have a frost after April 15th (hence many of the peach buds freeze decreasing the paech crop) and before October 15th. In fact our historical latest freeze was May 10! Other vegetables require soil (not air) temperatures to be above 50 degrees or warmer. Tomatoes for example require warm soil, hence they are generally not planted outside until after May 1.

So does that mean you can not start vegetables until after April 15? No! They can be started from seed indoors about 6 weeks before the last frost date and then hardened off. To harden off seedlings and young plants, place them outside a few hours when the sun is warm. Bring them in at night. Gradually build up the time they tolerate being outdoors. Then the plant is ready to go in the ground. However, strating from seed is a skill of its own. You need containers such as cell packs or peat pots with loose seed starting soil. Then there is a mix of warm and cool light available the requisite number of hours. And of course soil moisture needs to be kept even.

Alternative to starting vegetables by seed? First, look at the seed requirements of the vegetables you want to plant. If they are cool weather vegetables, they may be able to be started outside sown directly into the soil. Another option is to purchase plants that were started indoors at a nursery at the right time to plant outdoors. Note here though that plants purchased directly from the nursery are much less stressed than those purchased from a big box store as they have not been transported and man handled. Purchase plants that have not yet fruited in their pots as that is a signal they are stressed in the pot. There are several local nurseries that start their vegetables indoors and make them available at the right time to plant outdoors. Three nurseries to consider are Bowood Farms (4605 Olive St, St. Louis, MO 63108), Wiethops (2463 Barrett Station Rd, Ballwin, MO 63021) or Thies Farm (14101 Creve Coeur Airport Rd, St. Louis, MO 63146).

Types of Vegetables

There are perennial vegetables such as asparagus and rhubarb, cool weather vegetables and warm weather vegetables. Following is the table created by the University of Missouri Extension Service to assist gardeners growing vegetables in our area. On the first two pages is a list of vegetables on the left with an estimate of the number of plants for fresh (family) use. reading across the table identifies the distance between rows, seed depth (if planting seeds) and days to harvest. Using the slider on the right, scroll to page 3 and following to see a list of vegetables good for this area and dates to plant them for Central Missouri!

Maintenance

Weeding

Cultivate lightly as soon as weeds appear. Avoid cultivating around the roots of the vegetable-instead pull the weed by hand. Preference is to avoid chemical weed control as you will most likely kill the vegetable with overspray. At the very least, the chemical is in th esoil and can be taken up by the vegetable. Avoid cultivating in wet soil.

Mulches

Mulches suppress weed emergence and growth but do not stop it. Weeding is still necessary. Mulch aslso reduces disease and evaporation. They “blanket” the soil keeping more even temperature in the soil. Till is or cultivate it under at the end of the season to enrigh the soil as it decays. Be careful though as some mulches are more acidic than others. Mulches that break down to nutrients are preferred over some mulches (fresh wood chips) that actually use nitrogen in the soil to break down.

Watering

Most vegetables are thirsty. At least an inch of water per week is needed. Sometimes more in raised beds which drain well. Avoid standing and soggy soils though. To determine if the plant needs water, dig about an inch down. If the soil is dry there, then water. If it is still moist, the roots have enough moisture.

Pest and Disease Control

Some insects are beneficial. Conider the lowly ladybug.  Ladybugs are beneficial insects that play a major role in keeping down populations of insects that feed on plants.  Perhaps most importantly, ladybugs are predators with an insatiable appetite for aphids. A ladybug can eat up to 5,000 aphids over its lifetime.  They can also help to rid your garden of other soft-bodied insects such as mites, mealybugs and leafhoppers, along with insect eggs and even ants. 

While disease can not be eliminated completely, good garden practices can minimize them. Diseases thrive in moist close environments. To conteract that, buy disease resistant varieties of vegetables, space them propoerly, avoid wetting the leaves (especially in the evening), avoid soggy soils and clean up dead/dying leaves and debris around the vegetables.